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Difference Between Chainstitch and Lockstitch

In this article, we can see the major differences between chainstitches and lockstitches. These two are the major stitches used in most apparel industries.


Chainstitch:


  1. Chainstitch is formed by two sets of sewing thread. (i.e. Needle Thread and Looper Thread).

  2. The Threads are bound together by interlacing and interloping

  3. The strength of the chainstitch is greater than the lockstitch

  4. Back-tacking is not needed at the finishing side of the stitch as security

  5. Seam Puckering Possibility is high in chainstitch

  6. Extensibility (or) Elasticity of the stitch stand normally at 30%

  7. Appearance of the chainstitch looks like lockstitches at the top side and double chainstitch at the bottom side

  8. Thread consumption is higher

  9. Application of the stitch: Chainstitches are stretchier than lockstitch, which is why you find them in places such as waistband, legseams of jeans, shirt plackets, etc.,



Seam Puckering Sample


Lockstitch:


  1. Lockstitch is formed by two sets of sewing thread. (i.e. Needle Thread and Bobbin Thread). It is generally called Stitch Type 301. (which is the simplest stitch)

  2. The threads are bound together by interlacing

  3. The strength of the lockstitch is not as strong as chainstitch

  4. Back-tacking is needed at the finishing side of the stitch as security

  5. Seam puckering possibility is less in lockstitch

  6. Extensibility (or) Elasticity of the stitch stand normally less than 30%

  7. Appearance of the stitch is same on both the sides

  8. Thread consumption is lower

  9. Application of the stitch: Lockstitch is extensively used in joining fabrics, collar, cuff, pocket sleeve, facing, etc.,



Chainstitch

Lockstitch

​No. of Threads Required

2 Threads (Needle and Looper Thread)

​2 Threads (Needle and Bobbin Thread)

Formation

Threads are bound together by interlacing and interloping

Threads are bound together by interlacing

Strength of the Stitch

Higher

Lower

Necessity for Back-tacking

Back-tacking Not Needed

Back-tacking Needed

Seam Puckering Possibilty

Seam Puckering Possibility is higher

Seam Puckering Possibility is lower

Extensibility (or) Elasticity

Elasticity stands at 30%

Elasticity stands at less than 30%

Appearance of the Stitch

​Looks like Lockstitch at the top side and double chainstitch at the downside

Looks the same on both the sides

Consumption of Thread

Thread consumption is Higher

Thread consumption is Lower

Applications and Uses

Waistband, legseams of jeans, shirt plackets, etc.,

Joining fabrics, collar, cuff, pocket sleeve, facing, etc.,



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